REAL PEOPLE WEARING SUIT / THE EDITOR IN CHIEF

Meet one of our closest clients Mr. JP, the Editor in Chief of Talkmen, at his office.

The Story
For Mr. JP, he believes a suit should be an extension of yourself and your character. A suit is more than just a wardrobe for him. He wears a suit as a way to appreciate himself and the people he meet. “a suit completes me as a gentleman” as he stated. That’s why he prefers it to be custom made. 

When he brought his own fabrics, chosen a bright light grey color and wanted to make it as a three-piece suit, we knew that he knows what he’s doing with his style and wardrobe. 

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT / KNOWING THE PYRAMID OF STYLE

Let’s just be honest: style, for men, is a hard thing to grasp. It’s especially hard when buying new clothes. We always forget our sizes, we don’t know how things are supposed to fit, and we can never figure out what matches or looks good. Sometimes what we buy ends up sitting in the closet because we don’t like the way it fits or looks when we wear it. In short, shopping for clothes can feel like a confusing or frustrating process. But it doesn’t have to be. What if I told you there was a way to simplify style? If you can focus on the easy-to-remember tips in this article, you’ll be able to walk into any store with a clear idea of what to buy, and you’ll walk out and into the world with confidence in how you look.

My favorite tool for selecting clothes that look good on you is the Style Pyramid.

It’s a simple three-step rubric: Fit, Fabric, and Style.

A piece of clothing that doesn’t meet all three criteria is a piece of clothing you’re better off not wearing.

• Fit sits at the top of the pyramid. Everything else comes from it. If a garment doesn’t fit well, none of its other characteristics matter — it’s not going to look good on you. Fit should always be your first stopping point when you consider a purchase.

• Fabric is key in determining the quality of a piece of clothing. If you’re not satisfied with the raw material, you’re not going to be all that satisfied with the finished product. It’s less of an absolute barrier than fit — you can have many degrees of quality, whereas fit mostly breaks down into “good” and “bad.” That said, fabric is still a crucial consideration.

• Style is about your own personal taste and the image you want to present. If something fits and is well made, but doesn’t give you the look you want, it’s still not a good purchase.

Work your way through the pyramid in this order when you’re thinking about buying clothes. If something doesn’t fit, stop there. If it fits, but it seems cheaply made, skip it. And if it fits and is of good quality, but doesn’t feel right for your style, wait for something more suited to your tastes.

for more details - thanks to, (via) artofmanliness.com

SOMETHING TO THINK ABOUT / BUTTONS OF A SUIT

In Indonesia, suit has its own paradigm to the users. For most of Indonesians, suit trend is divided into two. The old school and the modern style. The suit with 2 buttons is considered as an old school style, the 3 buttons suit is to be used for formal wear, whereas the 1 button suit is the more modern one and made for more casual occasions.

All those paradigms above appear due to the Indonesians habit in wearing suit. To Indonesians, not only the need to possess a suit comes as tertiary necessary, but it is also reflected as pricey menswear. That’s probably the reason behind the false knowledge and rarity of a suit as part of daily wear.

Mostly, suit is worn to attend a wedding or for corporate matters, which only happens few times in a year for most of us. Whereas for daily corporate wear, trouser and shirt are considered as appropriate. As matter of fact, the touch of tie on the neck is considered too natty instead of seeing it as a proper addition.

The Basic Knowledge
Let us bring you back to the basic knowledge of menswear. It’s essential to understand that every suit was designed to support our body posture.
So, no suit style has a definite function whether for formal or casual wear.

The theory says the number of button on one’s suit depends on his height. The taller a man is, the more buttons he might need. A man with 170 cm height will be better seen with 2 buttons,  a man less than 170 cm will be better seen with 1 button and if he’s above 170 cm, the 3 buttons will suit him.

Harmonize The Design With Your Body
The number of buttons gives impression on the V-zone of a man’s posture. V-zone is the area where a chest part seen. It does the trick of making an ideal look. The more buttoned suit makes a less seen V-zone. So, logically if you’re very tall, choose the 3 buttons suit because it will be focusing on showing your torso. It makes you height seems ideal. On the other hand, if you’re short, 1 button one will suits you because it shows more of V-zone that will make you look as if you’re taller.

The Conclusion
Wearing a suit is not all about being trendy or fashionable. It’s more of knowing and appreciating the goodness and weakness of our body shape. And to deliver the right image from your appearance.

REAL PEOPLE WEARING SUIT / THE GRAPHIC DESIGNERS

Meet our clients from Table Six, MR. APK and Mr. FS, a multidisciplinary design studio based in Jakarta, with a main branch in Sydney. 

Although they’re co-workers and best friends with a same taste of designs in particular, when it comes to style of a wardrobe, they’re very different.

The Story
For Mr. APK, he always try to look neat everyday and likes preppy looks. He has been interested in buying a suit, but because of his body proportion, he never find one that fits good. He have big hips and bottom. So when he met us, he wanted to make a double breast, because it suits his style. We consulted him to make a well fitted double breast, cause not only it works covering those problems even though he choose a bright blue color, the tailored suit still creates a nice silhouette and makes him looked taller.

The Suit
Attention for details; customized monogram, custom button, and hand-made button hole with fused construction.

Material: Local valued-cotton

The Story
Although he’s the co-founder of table six, Mr. FS refers himself as an easy going, laid back and shy kind of guy. He have always had interest in dressing well to look more professional, especially for certain occasions, but never find a right time. One day he found out his twin brother was going to get married, so he thought “Hey, this is the right moment to make myself a suit”.

He’s a first-timer suit wearer, so it would be better to make a suit that is flexible. One that he can use for both formal and non-formal occasion. We consulted him to make a blue navy single breast. Since he’s a first-timer, it’s very versatile and it’s simply because he won’t be wearing it for a day-to-day basis. But when he wants or need it for an occasion, he can use it again or mix it with his other apparel. It’s very suitable for those who wants to build a wardrobe.

The Suit
Attention for details; customized monogram, custom linings, custom button, and hand-made button hole with fused construction.

Material: Local valued-cotton

*(photo) - our beloved photographer Mr. Yap

THE BASIC / CAMICIA WORKS

A good shirt isn’t about an extravagant design and unnecessary details. It’s about the very basic function of a wardrobe: the right fit, materials and details for the right occasion.

Processing Time
Our Made-to-Measure shirt will be done around 2-3 weeks. We cut the fabric by hands, using tailor scissor, one step at a time to ensure if it fits right to your body. Then we sew it together with simple machinery.

We work for perfection, but you should acknowledge the difference between manufactured and handmade product. Our product will have some minor defect on some parts. But rather than seeing it as defect, those minors reflect the craftsmanship on your every piece of shirt.

Quality Materials
We offer you the best yet handpicked materials from our local and overseas merchants. Our fabrics vary from local 100% cotton, linen, chambray, to the UK’s Acorn 100% two-ply cotton and bamboo-linen.

We also love scavenging through fabric shops around local area for some high quality dead stock materials. So for those who want more exclusive and limited fabrics that only you alone who posses it, just keep in touch with us for updates.

Construction and Detailing
We use the single-stitched construction, or popular by the say single-needle stitching or lockstitch. It’s a basic yet traditional technique in making shirt which gives you the nice, flat seam, clean and fine finished appearance. It needs more patience and also passion, but again, serving you with good craftsmanship is our main value.

For more details, you can email us or just drop by at Mario Minardi’s flag store at Kota Kasablanka mall.

for Mr. DL our client from Singapore
(spread collar, rounded cuff, no placket - pocket)

Material: Thomas Mason

Cheers,

Brillington&Brothers

(WK)

*(photo) - our beloved photographer Mr. Yap

THE SUIT/ RUGGED DARK BLUE-NAVY

for Mr. EJ our client from Jakarta
(single breast with two buttons, notch lapel, patch-flap pockets, double vents)

Attention for details; hand-stitched button holes, canvassed construction, full linings with a black leather off the rack cap-toe Mario Minardi’s shoes

Material: Lessona

*(photo) - our beloved photographer Mr. Yap

THOMAS FISCHER - CAPE BREEZE / TGW’S PENNY LOAFER

Let us introduce our new fabric that just arrived from our foreign merchant. Thomas Fisher Cape Breeze bunches consist of  70% super, 100s wool and 30% summer kid mohair. All of the cloths weigh in at 240g or 8 Oz weight. The texture of Super 100s wool is smoother and more refined which makes it very suitable for our climate here in Jakarta.

Secondly, the TGW’s Penny Loafer, the true understated elegance. Many people use it to go to work, and its acceptable, but penny loafers should be the shoe you wear to walk around with your family, friends and your loved ones in good times. It’s a pair best used when walking in the pier while breathing the sea breeze, walking on the granite floor of the mall or tapping the wooden floor of the Irish club.

For more details, you can email us or just drop by at Mario Minardi’s flag store at Kota Kasablanka mall.

*(photo) - our beloved photographer Mr. Yap